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Discussion Topic:
1936 Ford ignition problems.
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drkbp |
04-19-2016 @ 5:12 PM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Aug 2010
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Since nobody mentioned it, be sure you have the thick coil gasket between the coil and top of the distributor. I don't know which style, two or three screw, you have but it needs that gasket.
There is a soldered connection under the coil that can touch the top of the distributor housing and cause zero spark if you don't.
Ken in Texas
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forJJ |
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04-17-2016 @ 6:14 PM
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Posts: 44
Joined: Mar 2015
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Tom, Sorry, I didn't read it close enough. With your help, I think I can handle the distributor part. I'm going to give it a shot anyway...
I guess I will replace the resistor as Ken suggested. Anything else I should check?
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TomO |
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04-17-2016 @ 8:27 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7384
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you re-read my instructions, I told you how to align the tang with the slot. Using the guide studs should help getting it aligned correctly. If it is 180 out, the housing will not fit up tight against the engine.
The voltage readings make me think that you have resistance across the points and not enough current is flowing in the circuit to saturate the coil.
Tom
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forJJ |
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04-16-2016 @ 5:24 PM
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Member
Posts: 44
Joined: Mar 2015
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Tom--Thanks for the instructions. I think I can handle the wrenching part of it, but how do I know how to align the tang with the slot?
Ken--I bought a new battery about a year ago, and have kept it on a tender most of the time, so I don't think its the battery. I'm getting between 5.3V and 6.3V at the coil wire as I crank it. It sounds like I need to replace the resistor, is this the part:
http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordpart.php?number=18-12250-N
Thanks for all the help!!
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ken ct. |
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04-16-2016 @ 7:53 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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That's a pretty tall order for a newbi Tom hope he dosent get the tonge in wrong , it can be done. You know the result of doing that.If hes only getting 5.3 V at the coil wire either his battery is almost dead or his resister is bad.Someone who knows dist should check it out. OMO. ken ct.
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TomO |
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04-16-2016 @ 7:11 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7384
Joined: Oct 2009
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To pull the distributor, remove the 2 caps, remove the coil, remove the vacuum line, remove the 3 bolts that hold the distributor on.
Clean the points with contact cleaner, lubricate the cam with a thin coating of distributor cam grease. Connect your ohm meter between the coil contact at the top of the distributor and the case of the distributor. Turn the shaft to make sure that the points make and break.
To install the distributor make 2 guide studs by cutting off the heads of 2 5/16 -18 x 1" bolts and installing the studs in the cover.
Slide the distributor over the studs, install the 3rd bolt loosely and turn the rotor slowly while pressing the distributor towards the engine. When the tang on the distributor is aligned with the slot in the camshaft, the distributor will fit tight against the engine. Snug up the 3rd bolt finger tight and replace the 2 studs with the 2 bolts and snug them up finger tight. Check all around the distributor to make sure that it is tight against the engine and then tighten the 2 bolts that are not used for the condenser ground.
Replace the vacuum line and coil. Secure the bolt that grounds the condenser. Your engine will be in time.
You may be able to clean the contact points by just removing the bails that hod the ditributor caps on and reaching into the distributor with some contact cleaner and a burnishing blade.
If you don't feel comfortable doing this, see if you can find a nearby V-8 Club member to help you.
Tom
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forJJ |
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04-15-2016 @ 6:59 PM
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Member
Posts: 44
Joined: Mar 2015
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I put a meter on the coil input, but I never saw it drop below 5.3 volts or so. If I need to pull the distributor, I think I will be getting in over my head. I have never pulled a distributor, and would need a lot a help/luck/etc getting it put back. Any suggestions?
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TomO |
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04-15-2016 @ 8:40 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7384
Joined: Oct 2009
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Connect a voltmeter to the coil input and check for battery voltage with the points open and about 4 volts with the points closed. You can open and close the points by tapping the starter button. If the voltage does not change, your points are not making contact when closed or your coil is not making good contact with the distributor.
Tom
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40 Coupe |
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04-15-2016 @ 4:26 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1799
Joined: Oct 2009
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After 30 years the points in the distributor may be corroded. It may be best to remove the distributor and clean the points. You can use a point file, do not use sand paper. Either ask Skip for a good condenser for the distributor or NAPA sells an FA-5 direct replacement. Test with a voltmeter to ground to see if there is voltage on the wire to the coil.
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ken ct. |
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04-14-2016 @ 9:55 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Try a new condenser. Can be fitted to existing coil. NAPA . ken ct.
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