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Discussion Topic:
1941 Ford unable to re-start engine & overheating
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jrbrks |
09-28-2026 @ 4:49 PM
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Member
Posts: 7
Joined: Apr 2026
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Thank you for the aftermarket fan recommendation
Jim
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carcrazy |
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09-25-2026 @ 1:40 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2152
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ideally you would want the fan to be located just behind the upper third of the radiator for maximum cooling efficiency. With the crankshaft mounted fan on the 1941 Ford engine, this ideal location is not possible.
The reason you want the fan to draw air through the top of the radiator core is because that is where the hot water from the engine enters the radiator.
If you reassemble all of the cooling system components and you still cannot get the engine to cool properly, you might want to consider using an electric cooling fan mounted near the top of the radiator core.
The most effective fans available are the puller type mounted on the engine side of the radiator. The best fan to use will have metal mounting straps which attach to the frame of the radiator. One source for a fan of this type is Fifth Avenue Antique Auto Parts - www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com
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jrbrks |
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09-25-2026 @ 1:08 PM
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Member
Posts: 7
Joined: Apr 2026
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I did find a factory drawing describing how the radiator is to be mounted with the springs and rubber cushions.
The previous owner had it mounted incorrectly, and I followed that pattern.
I now have the correct installation.
Jim
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jrbrks |
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09-25-2026 @ 8:18 AM
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Member
Posts: 7
Joined: Apr 2026
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Regarding overheating at idle with my 1941 Ford Super deluxe:
The base of my radiator sits on two short, stiff springs. Thus the bottom of the fan blades can extend just below the bottom of the radiator tank as shown in the photo.
Removing the springs would lower the radiator about an inch to inch and a half.
Is the radiator supposed to be sitting on these springs?
Should the springs be removed?
Is this likely to help with cooling?
I have just had the radiator thoroughly cleaned at a reputable radiator shop, and it is a four row radiator.
And, yes, I do have the bottom pan that I will install after reinstalling the hoses, etc. I have just reinstalled the radiator, after returning from the radiator shop.
Appreciate any advice or thoughts.
Jim
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TomO |
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05-05-2026 @ 9:50 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7489
Joined: Oct 2009
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Barney, look at this topic. It explaines why a capacotor is called a condenser.
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/222137/why-was-a-capacitor-called-a-condensor-condenser-in-the-early-days-of-electro
Tom
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MG |
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05-04-2026 @ 6:19 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1323
Joined: Nov 2009
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'Condenser' is used as another name for capacitor...
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Barney |
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05-04-2026 @ 4:57 PM
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New Member
Posts: 139
Joined: Nov 2015
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Just curious - Why in the world do we refer those little, silver round things a bit smaller than the size of our thumb that reside in the distributor as 'condensers'? Aren't condensers gizmos that change the state of a gas into a liquid? Shouldn't they be referred to as 'capacitors'? I'll shut up/
Barney
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carcrazy |
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05-04-2026 @ 9:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 2152
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you use a modern internally resisted coil with a coil adapter kit, you can eliminate the troublesome external resistor from the ignition primary circuit.
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pauls39coupe |
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05-04-2026 @ 7:26 AM
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Member
Posts: 266
Joined: Jul 2014
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Good advice from all. I think MG hit on something with the resister. I have had that happen on a Ford tractor. The resister would not cool off quickly went the engine was first shut off. This lead to low voltage going to the coil.
When this happens again, try using a wire to jump around the resister to provide full voltage to the coil.
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MG |
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05-03-2026 @ 1:33 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1323
Joined: Nov 2009
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I experienced this same problem with a '57 Chevy I once owned. - It would start immediately when cold, but after warm-up it would not start until it got cold again. It was tricky to find the cause, but it turned out to be a faulty resistor in the ignition circuit. Seems the resistor got so hot while the engine was running that the voltage drop across it increased to the point where there was not enough voltage to the coil for ignition during start-up...
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