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Discussion Topic:
Still Getting Vapor Lock
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1953fords |
07-12-2026 @ 8:42 AM
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Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Oct 2010
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Sorry, is not about vapor lock...but I need both 1953 ford sunliner wiper arms. I think what I am getting is for a 1953 truck...the blades hit the chrome on top of the windshield....I have the correct blades. I thought maybe you know someone who has 1952-54 Sunliner parts. By the way, my name is Steve Stastny. One of the contributors to the 1952-54 Manuals......
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1953fords |
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07-12-2026 @ 8:42 AM
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Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Oct 2010
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Sorry, is not about vapor lock...but I need both 1953 ford sunliner wiper arms. I think what I am getting is for a 1953 truck...the blades hit the chrome on top of the windshield....I have the correct blades. I thought maybe you know someone who has 1952-54 Sunliner parts. By the way, my name is Steve Stastny. One of the contributors to the 1952-54 Manuals......
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GK1918 |
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05-30-2026 @ 10:20 AM
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New Member
Posts: 146
Joined: Aug 2016
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Move to New England then deal with Carb Icing And its going into June I can't believe it...........
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Drbrown |
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05-03-2026 @ 9:54 AM
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Senior
Posts: 620
Joined: Nov 2013
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The air space/gap between the front of the engine cooling fan blades and the inside surface of the radiator MAY be an issue. Food for-thought: My '47 came with a noisey after-market six-bladed fiberglass engine fan AND a shop-made circular sheet-rubber ring that fits around the fan to make the fan suck air only from the radiator. All that indicates a prior owner had an engine cooling problem. It resulted in a 2+ inch air gap between fan and radiator ..... don't know what size gap occurs with a stock four-blade fan My thought was that if the gap was excessive and if one is driving in stop and go traffic, the fan invites a lot of heated engine compartment air back into the fan flow and so less cooling of the radiator ("modern" cars have inside "skirts" to direct radiator air to the fan). Without the shop-made fan ring device I got over-heating so had a spacer made to fit between fan and its hub which moved the fan forward about one-inch clear of radiator. Since then no over-heating.
This message was edited by Drbrown on 5-3-26 @ 9:59 AM
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kevinshea |
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04-20-2026 @ 12:48 PM
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Member
Posts: 14
Joined: Jun 2016
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For my 35 with a 59AB, I wrapped the fuel line in what I recall was a kevlar (?) sleeve as I tried to reduce any heating of the fuel line.. I am in New England and we don't see much in the 90Fs. I also chose to run an electric pump, mounted on the frame under the driver seat. haven't had a problem.
available at amazon. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=vapor+lock+fuel+line+sleeve&adgrpid=189434002547&hvadid=792892959054&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9002549&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=9671786001551563656--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9671786001551563656&hvtargid=kwd-2315742247089&hydadcr=24748_13895748_2427185&mcid=cc3434742d393988b38126f9bef97235&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_8xnkgofccs_e
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52flatv8 |
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04-18-2026 @ 7:33 AM
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Member
Posts: 35
Joined: Feb 2025
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If there is a flexible fuel line in the system, I have had the inner lining delaminate and collapse restricting flow.
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carcrazy |
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04-17-2026 @ 2:37 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2116
Joined: Oct 2009
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While you can buy a 6V coil from NAPA, my experience with them has not been good. You can also buy a 6V coil from Fifth Avenue for $90, C&G for $29.95, Dennis Carpenter for 39.95 or VanPelt for $22.00. In my experience, the most reliable ones are also among the more expensive ones!
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carcrazy |
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04-17-2026 @ 1:49 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2116
Joined: Oct 2009
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Yes! Using a 12V coil in a 6V electrical system is a problem.
Is your electrical system still 6V using a positive ground to the battery? If so, you should be using a 6V coil with the coil + terminal going to the distributor. The - terminal of the coil should go to the ignition switch. If you wire the coil up backwards, you will reduce ignition output by about 30%.
You can probably buy a 6V coil at your local NAPA store.
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TomO |
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04-17-2026 @ 1:49 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7460
Joined: Oct 2009
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1. Do a fuel delivery test to make sure that you are getting enough fuel and that the line is not plugged.
2. Check all fuel line connections to make sure that they are tight and not leaking air.
3. Replace the sediment bowl gasket.
It sounds like your fuel pump is not providing enough fuel to the carburetor. The electric pump is pushing gas through the line and the mechanical pump has to suck it from the tank. Having an electric pump in the line makes it more difficult for the mechanical pump to suck fuel. Connections that work OK at 70 degrees may fail at 90 degrees if they are not not tight. A dried out sediment bowl gasket will work fine until the pump and bowl get hot, then it will leak air.
Let us know how you make out.
Tom
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wlobb |
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04-17-2026 @ 1:11 PM
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Member
Posts: 89
Joined: Jul 2024
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yeah as soon as I hit the electric pump I'm back in business. In fact, it stalled about a mile from my house, I hit the electric pump, popped the clutch in 2nd gear and it fired right up strong.
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