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Discussion Topic:
1951 Shoebox Heater Control Valve.
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wlobb |
09-28-2025 @ 5:13 PM
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Member
Posts: 58
Joined: Jul 2024
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Hi guys, the latest rabbit hole I find myself in is for heat in my '51. The engine, stats, coolant etc. is all good now. Hoses are right now too. The hoses to the valve and the core are hot on both sides so I'm pretty sure I have a good supply of hot water. I was hoping the problem was in the control levers and or the cables. So today I pulled the control out and at first I thought I found it, the HEAT lever wouldn't budge. i went to pull it from the valve and that's when I saw the valve was very, very tight. I moved it a little with a screwdriver, but I'd never make it move with the control cable. I'm thinking of pulling the valve, it looks like I just need to bypass the valve and remove it.
My first question is if i remove the hoses and the two screws holding it to the back of the firewall is there any nasty stuff like springs that will pop out and ruin my day? Is it ok if I get this valve good and soaked in PB Blaster. If you look at the attached photo the valve doesn't look bad or corroded. I wondering if it's just stuck from years of not moving.
From what I've read about these valves they don't exist anymore. Shoebox Central says they can rebuild the core. Have any of you had them rebuilt? Is there a rebuild kit out there I don't know about? Any info will be really appreciated! Thanks,
Bill
This message was edited by wlobb on 9-28-25 @ 5:15 PM
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nelsb01 |
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09-28-2025 @ 7:55 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1098
Joined: Oct 2009
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I have some questions. Where do you live? And do you need a heater?
When I got my very original 1949 Ford, the heater core had the hoses not connected, but just looped back to the engine. Being that most of everything worked on the vehicle, I got a new hose kit and connected them to the heater core, filled it with water and went for a drive. After about a half block the passenger floor mat was just covered with water. Determind that the heater core was leaking and that since I will never drive the vehicle in cold weather, decided to try and find a way to connect the hoses, but not have water run through them.
So, my solution was to get some copper plumbing ends, fit them over the heater core inlet and outlet and then attach the hoses. The hose clamps tightened the hose over the copper ends and also the heater core ends. To this day, I have had no water come down from the heater core or from the hose connections.
If you don't need the heater.............
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wlobb |
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09-29-2025 @ 5:17 AM
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Posts: 58
Joined: Jul 2024
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Hi, thanks for the reply. This car is not my daily driver, I live in upstate NY. I do like to take it out in the winter when the roads are clear of ice and salt. My goal with this car is to get it back—as close as I can to how it was in 1951. No 12 V Batteries or disc brakes, etc. I am considering a dual reservoir master cylinder and I did add a 6v electric fuel pump—as an aux—but the goal is to get everything working. Having the heater/defroster is part of that process. If I find the heater core leaks I’ll take your advice as a temp fix. While I pull this valve I’ll take the hose from the water pump to the valve and route that back to the block on the passenger side. Is that how you had yours?
Bill
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Dan Duszkiewicz |
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09-29-2025 @ 7:48 AM
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Joined: Sep 2020
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This kit was recommended on Fordbarn, but I have never tried it.
https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/5944/Chevrolet_Chevrolet_Heater_Control_Valve_Rebuild_Kit_With_Instructions_Ranco_Only.html
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carcrazy |
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09-29-2025 @ 8:48 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1979
Joined: Oct 2009
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If your hot water control valve on the cylinder head is frozen up and inoperable, you can simply replace it with a hot water control valve like this one and run a hose from it directly to the heater core.
https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/trucks/heater-amp-ac/heater-control-valve/91a-15142-heater-hose-shut-off-valve
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Kens 36 |
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09-29-2025 @ 8:50 AM
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Posts: 405
Joined: Oct 2009
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Bill,
I would not hesitate to have the valve rebuilt by Shoebox Central - they know what they are doing.
To remove it, there are no springs to fly out. Just a little bit of coolant. It is well worth it to have your heater working correctly.
My apologies to nelsb, but we don't all live in the permanent summer weather of Minnesota.
Ken
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wlobb |
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09-29-2025 @ 9:28 AM
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Member
Posts: 58
Joined: Jul 2024
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Carcrazy: Thank you! that's an interesting alternative! Let me see how far I get with the valve.
This message was edited by wlobb on 9-29-25 @ 9:29 AM
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wlobb |
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09-29-2025 @ 9:33 AM
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Posts: 58
Joined: Jul 2024
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Kens 36, Thank you! Shoebox looks like the way to go for me! This car is a total labor of love for me. I've spent hundreds of hours under the car and under its hood. Not one minute of that time has ever felt like work.
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Kens 36 |
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09-29-2025 @ 11:57 AM
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Posts: 405
Joined: Oct 2009
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Bill,
Chris at Shoebox Central worked for Ray Marler at Shoebox Ford years ago. I'm sure Chris was taught the process by Ray.
Ray rebuilt the leaking Ranco valve on my '50 Convertible when I restored it in 2002. Still working just fine to this day.
Ken
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Kens 36 |
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09-29-2025 @ 12:18 PM
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Member
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There is also a relevant post on this from just a couple of years ago on the Fordbarn. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324716
Member Shoebox posted: "I hear there are those that have done it, but the process seems rather tedious, just bending the tabs that hold it together without breaking them is an example. I had my control valve rebuilt by Shoebox Central and in talking to them I learned they have a fixture and special tool(s). They did an awesome job."
Ken
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