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Discussion Topic:
rear main oil leak
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40 Coupe |
01-31-2022 @ 11:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1799
Joined: Oct 2009
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The one piece of the two inserts does not appear correct. The bottom one in your photo looks correct the top one appears to be earlier. See photo below
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37RAGTOPMAN |
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01-31-2022 @ 8:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1992
Joined: Oct 2009
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hi missouriron
I guess I was right on the source of the oil leak, being the cam shaft back cover, also the oil pump drive gear cover
now is a good time to check the gear for any wear. worn teeth or wobble , and the cam shaft
use locktite on the treads of the bolts, and a new gasket
hope this solves your oil leak issue,
my 2 cents 37Ragtopman ,Maine
you could try SOUTHSIDE OBSOLETE for NOS COVER gear if your is worn,
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missouriron |
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01-29-2022 @ 4:09 AM
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Member
Posts: 30
Joined: Jun 2011
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I think that I have found the problem. With the help of a neighbor, I have removed the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. The clutch is completely dry. No oil what so ever. The front of the flywheel is covered with oil. A track of oil caked in a neat little row where the flywheel has been slinging oil on it. The oil pump idler cover had a wet oily path all the way to the bottom of the block. Removing the cover allowed me to discover some of the old gasket had not been removed when the new gasket was installed.
I feel confident that I have found the source of my leak. I am going to rewire the entire car, so it will be a while before I reinstall the engine/transmission. I will repost when the car is back together. Hopefully almost leakless.
Thanks for all who share advice. Its been a good day.
Ron
Ron
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TomO |
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01-28-2022 @ 3:06 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7384
Joined: Oct 2009
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The oil pump is a 50# pump.
If you think that the narrower piece will control the oil better, use it. Every source of a rear engine leak that I know of has been mentioned, did you see any signs of the front seal leaking and the oil traveling back or the drain plug leaking and traveling back to the cotter key?
Tom
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missouriron |
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01-28-2022 @ 11:55 AM
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Member
Posts: 30
Joined: Jun 2011
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The part number seems to be correct for my engine. The attached photos show that 2 "horseshoes" are different. The wider one has one side plain with no gussets. While the other has gussets on both sides. I included a photo of the oil pump. It reaches to the bottom of the pan with its attached pickup screen. I assume that it is a 50# pump?
Ron
Ron
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TomO |
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01-27-2022 @ 8:26 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7384
Joined: Oct 2009
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The "horseshoe" should have a sharp V shape groove. I don't have one available to measure the width.
Did you look for a P/N on the part? Most of the slinger type had the P/N 78-6335 cast into the part. The rope types had the P/N 91A-6335 cast into them also, but there were some aftermarket ones made that did not have the P/N cast into them.
The block has a pressure relief valve at the front of the oil galley under the intake manifold. If you have the short body oil pump, it also has a pressure relief valve on the side. The short body pump is an 80# pump.
You oil pressure dash unit appears to working, but the wire going to the sending unit is either grounded or the sending unit is shorted. If you have an aftermarket sending unit it could be the cause. Look for a good used King-Seeley sending unit or a NOS one. Match the sending unit to the oil pump pressure, 50# sending unit with 50# pump and 80#sending unit with an 80# pump.
Tom
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missouriron |
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01-26-2022 @ 4:41 PM
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Member
Posts: 30
Joined: Jun 2011
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TomO, there is a weap pipe in the main bearing cap.
Where is the pressure relief located? I was unaware of such a thing.
Ron
Ron
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missouriron |
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01-26-2022 @ 4:15 PM
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Member
Posts: 30
Joined: Jun 2011
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I will plastiguage the main bearing and let you know what happens with that. The oil gauge is bad but no evidence of leaking. Just turning on the key let the gauge peg to the maximum. This happens without the engine running. I will have to get the engine disconnected from the engine stand before I can get the clutch and flywheel disassembled. Will let you know after I get that done.
Ron
Plastiguage shows main bearing clearance being .002 with 100lbs torque. Seems to be within tolerance.
I have removed the pot metal "horseshoe?" from the block. It appears to be wider than standard. It measures .318 in at the widest part. Another on my parts shelf measures .268 in. Is that enough difference to allow oil clinging to the slinger to let oil get past the block and into the oil pan that houses the flywheel and clutch?
Any advice is appreciated
Ron
This message was edited by missouriron on 1-27-22 @ 7:49 AM
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TomO |
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01-26-2022 @ 8:19 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7384
Joined: Oct 2009
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The slinger system works OK in most situations.
There should be a pipe in the rear main bearing cap to direct excess oil into the pan.
I use a non-hardening sealer like Permatex to seal around the outside of the 2 pot metal pieces that the slinger rides in.
I have never found that the weight of the oil used had any effect on oil leakage.
Are you sure that it is engine oil and not a mixture of engine and transmission oil? The main shaft oil seal could be contributing to the problem.
Tom
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37RAGTOPMAN |
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01-26-2022 @ 5:54 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1992
Joined: Oct 2009
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rear main oil leak
I have a 80 lb pump in my 21 stud engine, left the pressure relief valve inplace,
NOT leaking, any more then it ever did. not enough to be concerened,
It is FORD.,
I think if you have worn bearing. the higher pressure pump would cause more leaking past the worn rear main bearing,
this is possible
2 cents 37Ragtopman ,Maine
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