| wlobb | -- 11-28-2025 @ 8:12 AM |
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Hi, this is a slightly annoying not a big deal but it’s baffling me. My 1951 8BA usually starts instantly, especially when it’s cold. I turn the key, and the engine is running. I usually use my electronic fuel pump to prime the line, especially it was sitting for about a week, so I let that pump run for 15 or 20 seconds. I turn off the primer hit the key engine starts car runs great. Once in a while and it’s becoming more frequent it’ll idle for 30 seconds or so and then just die. Sometimes I can make it recover by giving it some gas sometimes giving it gas just makes it stall anyway. The thing is once it gets running it runs absolutely fine on the mechanical pump. It can do 60 miles an hour all day, it can climb hills it can idle just fine. It’s just occasionally it just stalls and I can’t figure out why. Unfortunately, the carburetor is Chinese knock off that I actually thought was an original. I bought from some guys in Florida, but to be honest with you it’s a very good carburetor. I’ve had no problems with it. I have a 1949 model 94 that I’m in the process of rebuilding that I’m going to put on there but the only reason I’m replacing it is I want a vintage carburetor on the engine not the Chinese knock off. I’ve occasionally had problems where the copper fittings backed off a little bit, and I tighten them and my problems go away but now the fittings are all tight, I don’t have old fuel in the tank. I usually run it down and fill it up about once a month. I only run non-ethanol. I’m just baffled. Once I get it started the second time it runs, and it runs fine on the mechanical pump. It runs fine on the electrical pump. I’ve got a pressure regulator on the line. It's set at 2 1/2 psi. Air cleaner is clean… timing is good, points and condenser are new... 6-volt positive ground system is tight and clean... I’m running out of ideas. This message was edited by wlobb on 11-28-25 @ 8:14 AM
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| pauls39coupe | -- 11-28-2025 @ 8:42 AM |
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Try using the choke when you start, then pushing it to 1/2 choke till the engine warms a bit. We (myself included) have gotten so used to fuel injected engines and before that automatic chokes that we forget how these old cars operate. I suspect many of our starting problems such as excess cranking could be solved by using the choke when starting a cold engine. Give it a try. It worked for me. Paul
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| wlobb | -- 11-28-2025 @ 9:21 AM |
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Hi, thank you for the reply. I do use the choke when it's cold. You are right, it takes some getting used to after being spoiled by fuel injection. I think the choke may be part of this problem.
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| pauls39coupe | -- 11-28-2025 @ 10:22 AM |
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Give it a try and let us know if it helped.
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| carcrazy | -- 11-28-2025 @ 1:37 PM |
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Check all of the connections in the primary circuit of your ignition system. You may have a loose connection that is marginal and opens up when the engine rocks around on its mounts or experiences various temperatures.
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| wlobb | -- 11-28-2025 @ 5:58 PM |
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I will. Thank you
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| wlobb | -- 11-28-2025 @ 5:58 PM |
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Worth a shot. Thank you
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| wlobb | -- 11-29-2025 @ 3:42 AM |
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The engine will run with the battery disconnected. It’s still 6v positive ground. So, I don’t think that’s part of it.
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| carcrazy | -- 11-29-2025 @ 4:19 PM |
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If the engine runs with the battery disconnected, the ignition system is being powered by electrical current from the generator.
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| wlobb | -- 11-30-2025 @ 6:10 AM |
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Yes dynamos (generators) have a residual magnetic field that allows them to provide enough power for the coil, but not much else. Alternators need to battery power to induce the initial power.
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| wlobb | -- 11-30-2025 @ 6:12 AM |
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Follow-up: I found the problem. It was a leak in the line where the 5/16” steel couples to the 1/4” line into the pump. I’ve had trouble here before. I wish I could find. 5/16” compression to 1/4” barb and eliminate this joint. This message was edited by wlobb on 11-30-25 @ 6:18 PM
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| carcrazy | -- 11-30-2025 @ 8:13 AM |
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This flexible fuel pump inlet hose may solve your problem. https://cgfordparts.com/flexible-fuel-line-to-fuel-pump-hose-51-58-pass-55-57-t-bird-51-62-f-1-f-250-1a-9288-a.html
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| wlobb | -- 11-30-2025 @ 6:18 PM |
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Thank you. I want to get this line.
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| carcrazy | -- 12-01-2025 @ 12:16 AM |
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The best solution to your fuel leaking problem is to get a solid steel line with the ferrules and fittings required. Bend the line to the correct configuration to fit between your carburetor and fuel pump, first place the fittings on the line and then solder the ferrules to the steel line. Install the line and properly tighten the fittings and your leakage problem with these joints will be cured. https://cgfordparts.com/fuel-line-pump-to-carburetor-32-53-pass-pu-v8-needs-to-be-bent-91a-9369.html
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