| Dream38v8 | -- 09-05-2025 @ 6:06 AM |
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After the starter was replaced I discovered to fuel was not getting to the carb. I replaced all rubber fuel lines and the filter. After trying to start my '38 again I noticed no gas had enter the filter. The filter is between the fuel pump and carb. Is the problem the fuel pump or the fuel line / tank? How do I determine if the lack of fuel is the pump or line / tank? Thank you! Ray
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| RAK402A | -- 09-05-2025 @ 10:00 AM |
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If you disconnect the line between the fuel pump and the carb and crank the engine (with the ignition OFF) and don't see fuel coming out of the pump-it is the pump or a plugged line or tank. In my case, I had congealed fuel in the metal line and tank. I let my '40 sit too long about 10 years ago (it probably sat for 3-4 years). When I tried starting it and, like you, I could not get fuel to the carb. It would fire on starting fluid. I changed the fuel pump, the line from the firewall to the pump, and re-built the carb-still no joy. I tried blowing compressed air down the fuel line from the firewall and found the line plugged. Eventually the air pressure cleared the line, but I still had jellied gasoline in the tank (the fuel in California is awful). I ended up changing the metal fuel line and the tank to make sure that there was no contamination (I could have just dropped the tank and cleaned it, and cleared the line by flushing it, but I wanted everything new/clean at that point. After replacing those items and cleaning new fuel pump and the carb again to make sure the car ran fine again. Others have probably come up with better solutions, but that is what I did. This message was edited by RAK402A on 9-5-25 @ 10:02 AM
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| Dream38v8 | -- 09-07-2025 @ 4:56 AM |
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I believe the issue is either the fuel line or tank. Hence I want to blow air back thru the fuel line. How much air pressure can I use? Can I use my air compressor? The reason I believe the issue is the line / tank is the car sat from early May until now with an empty tank. I've added 2 gallons of gas and nothing. I opened the fuel line where it "Ts" off to the electric fuel pump and no gas leaked out of the line. I have taken the electric pump out of the fuel system as I seldom used it if ever. Trying to determine if the issue is the fuel pump or tank. It is beautiful weather and I want to get out driving the '38. Ray
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| carcrazy | -- 09-07-2025 @ 8:19 AM |
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You can use your air compressor to push air through the fuel line but limit the amount of pressure to 30 psi or less. Once you have cleared the fuel line and have fuel at the front end of the line, verify that your fuel pump is working.
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| Big Red 51 | -- 09-07-2025 @ 7:09 PM |
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Ray, Your no flow Gas to glass bowl is most likely over tightening of the glass bowl finger round screw. even with an electric gas pump runnng. I just had that common problem last week and backed finger screw about one turn. Works fine after . Don
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| TomO | -- 09-08-2025 @ 8:52 AM |
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The most common cause of your situation is a vacuum leak in the supply line connections. Next is a plugged supply line. I have found that my fuel pump primes the carburetor best when I have a solid copper coated steel line from the tank to the firewall connection for the flex line. I have also found that the rubber fuel lines sold in the auto parts stores are for fuel injected fuel systems and do not work very well on the vacuum side of the fuel pump. If you prime your float bowl with fresh fuel and the engine runs until the fuel runs out, you probably have a plugged supply line. I the fuel pump can supply fuel after the engine is running, you probably have vacuum leak. Disconnect the fuel line at the tank before blowing out the fuel line. You don't want to blow any debris back into the tank to come back to haunt you. You normally don't need much pressure to clear the line. I have used caned air for cleaning keyboards to clear lines. Tom
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| Dream38v8 | -- 09-10-2025 @ 5:14 PM |
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Tom, Don and all other V8ers that are helping. Thank you. I was finally able to get back to working on the '38. I disconnected the fuel line under the car. We were able to blow compressed air thru the line where it was disconnected. Clear line down to where it was disconnected. Next I blow air into the line where it was disconnected into the gas tank. I could here the gas bubble in the tank. So at this time I believe the fuel line is clear. Earlier I replaced the rubber fuel lines into and out of the fuel pump with new lines from O'Reilly's. Is the issue the fuel pump? If yes, can I rebuild it or by another one? Where on purchasing the kit and pump? Again, thank you for all your guidance. Ray
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| carcrazy | -- 09-10-2025 @ 8:23 PM |
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Yes, If you need to purchase a fuel pump repair kit, they are available from several of the vendors. C&G offers the repair kit and the additional cover gasket (P.N. 68-9364) required if your pump does not have the glass bowl. You can also purchase a 6V or a 12V electric fuel pump from them if you want. https://cgfordparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=fuel%20pump%20repair%20kit&finder%5B1%5D=4767&finder%5B2%5D=787614&finder%5B3%5D=788111&find=find
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| Dream38v8 | -- 09-12-2025 @ 9:00 AM |
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Carcrazy and all, I've attached pics of my carb. There is no manufacture or other info on the pump. Also there has been mention of a glass bowl on the carb. As you can see my carb does not have a glass bowl. Is there a kit for my carb or a diaphram. If the rubber fuel lines sold in parts stores are an issue what do I use? I believe we are getting closer to solving my fuel supply issue. Thanks Ray
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| TomO | -- 09-12-2025 @ 10:15 AM |
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You should use a fuel line made for your car. The line that you have used is for fuel injection and the clamp is not close to the fuel pump, so I believe that it may be part of your problem. Here is a link to the correct flexible line for your car. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/trucks/fuel-system/fuel-lines/18-9288-a-fuel-line--flexible Make sure that you tighten the connection to the fuel pump securely and then tighten the connection to the tank line. Any air leaks on the fuel supply side make it very hard for the fuel pump to lift the fuel the 10: into the fuel pump. Tom
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| Dream38v8 | -- 09-12-2025 @ 3:11 PM |
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Thanks Tom. After blowing out the fuel line I slipped the fuel line back and and didn't tighten the clamp prior to taking the picture. At all times with the old cracked fuel line or the new line no fuel was or is getting to the carb since the starter issue. The cracked fuel line has been on the car since I owned the car in 2016. The car ran fine until this spring starter issue. I ordered the recommended fuel line. What about the fuel pump? Ray
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| pauls39coupe | -- 09-12-2025 @ 6:04 PM |
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Be sure the lid on the fuel pump is tight and that the gasket is in good shape. Sometimes the starter does not turn the engine fast enough to suck fuel from the tank to the carb. Try filling the carb bowl with enough gas to start the engine and run it for 10 seconds or so. Once "primed " this way the fuel pump will often supply fuel at cranking speed. Paul
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| Dream38v8 | -- 09-29-2025 @ 4:43 AM |
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I've had a recovery setback while waiting for the new fuel line from Dennis Carpenter. Yesterday I finally was able to install this new fuel line. As in previous post no gas is getting to the carb as I attempt to start the car. I hesitate to remove the carb top as I expect the gasket will be destroyed. The carb has not been apart since at least 2002. I verified the fuel line has no blockage and replaced the fuel line to the fuel pump. Do I rebuild the fuel pump before starting on the carb. I can not locate a manufacture on the fuel pump. Also the fuel pump does not have a glass bowl. The attached picture was taken prior to replacing the fuel line. As with the carb the fuel pump has not been apart since at least 2002. Ray
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| carcrazy | -- 09-29-2025 @ 9:06 AM |
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If you have done all the things that you claim to have done and still don't have fuel being delivered to the carburetor, the fuel pump is bad and should either be rebuilt or replaced. The fuel pump for a 1938 Ford does not have a glass bowl. That is why you need to buy a separate gasket to seal the top metal cover of your pump in addition to the fuel pump repair kit for a glass bowl fuel pump. If you follow the instructions that I provided to you previously on 9/10/2025 you should be good to go.
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| Dream38v8 | -- 09-29-2025 @ 3:31 PM |
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Thanks Carcrazy. Fuel pump kit and gasket ordered. Parts cost was what I expected ($37), shipping was an additional $18. I guess you pay for what you need. Anyway thank you. I'll follow-up once I rebuild the fuel pump. Ray
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| Dream38v8 | -- 10-05-2025 @ 1:15 PM |
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I removed the fuel pump as the repair kit arrived yesterday. As I started the teardown and rebuilt I discovered two problems. First the new diaphragm gasket screw holes do not align with the fuel pump body holes. Second how do I remove the check valves? Thanks Ray
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| carcrazy | -- 10-05-2025 @ 9:03 PM |
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The holes in the diaphragm should line up with the holes in the body of the pump. To remove the check valves, first remove the little spring clip that holds them in place. The spring clip is retained to the pump by two screws which have to be removed before the spring clip will come off. Be sure to install the check valves in the same order as the old ones were located.
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| Dream38v8 | -- 10-06-2025 @ 5:15 AM |
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Thanks Carcrazy, but the diaphragm gasket holes are off center, the check valves are pressed in (no spring clip held in with 2 screws) and the wire mesh is incorrect. The car was rebuilt / restored sometime prior to 2002 in northern Ohio. The fuel pump must be an aftermarket (China?). I plan to return the rebuild kit an order a rebuilt / new fuel pump. I am the second owner since 2002. Thanks again everyone for all your assistance since my wife surprised me with the '38. I'll follow-up after I install the new fuel pump. Ray
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| Dream38v8 | -- 10-07-2025 @ 9:29 AM |
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Well I've spent the last day 1/2 searching for a new /rebuilt fuel pump (11A-9350). Many sights list the pump, but are out of stock. I am left with two options: 1) Determine how to remove the check values (check values were pressed in and not held in place by a spring clamp). Reorder a rebuild kit while I determine how to remove the check valves. 2) Order a rebuilt fuel pump (with sediment bowl). Order one from Early Ford Store (571-9350) if can be used as a replacement for the original no sediment bowl fuel pump. Thanks Ray
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| TomO | -- 10-07-2025 @ 10:49 AM |
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You can send your fuel pump to Charley Schwendler cas5845@yahoo.com to have it rebuilt. Tom
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| carcrazy | -- 10-07-2025 @ 11:13 AM |
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Contact David Groh at Yesteryear Ford Parts at either 800-728-0762 or 517-676-4416. He should be able to help you out with either a new or rebuilt fuel pump P.N. 68-9350, metal bowl type for for 1933 to 1942 Ford.
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| Dream38v8 | -- 10-08-2025 @ 1:13 PM |
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Tom and Carcrazy, I sent an email Monday to Charley and called David at Yesteryear Ford. Charley has not returned my email and Yesteryear Ford could not help. Yesterday Ford stopped carrying the fuel pump because poor quality. My next plan is to reorder a rebuild kit and find a way to remove the check values. Thanks All! Ray
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| carcrazy | -- 10-08-2025 @ 7:26 PM |
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Ray, Do you know of anyone who is going to the giant swap meet in Hershey, PA this week? They may be able to locate either an original fuel pump there that you can rebuild or one that has already been rebuilt. If you can't find what you need in Hershey you probably won't be able to find it anywhere. The swap meet continues until Friday Oct. 10th! Another option is to place an ad in the parts wanted section of this website. In the past, I have been able to locate rare parts there that I needed. Good luck finding the fuel pump that you need. Chuck
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| Dream38v8 | -- 10-09-2025 @ 10:46 AM |
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Tom and Chuck, a couple of things. First Charlie got back to me this morning. We have been exchanging emails and he believes he has a pump. Next and friend is at the Fall AACA meet and is asking around for a fuel pump. Thanks again. Ray
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| Big Red 51 | -- 10-11-2025 @ 8:31 AM |
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Fuel Pump by Airtex Products out of Fairfield, 9597 double action for 8BA on 1953 EBA. In 2012, I bought two , one for 1953 Victoria on EBA and one for on the Road. In September, after about 11k miles, pump was down to 1 1/2 lb of pressure, I put the new, 2012 Spare Airtex 9597 (9350) from C&G, on and found no fuel flow.. Found that the two fuel meters were installed backward. Took the used apart and put the old 9597 piece gauge in and works fine. Check the Papers these days and FIRST Brands auto parts multi bankrupts. I am glad I was at home not on the road a couple thousand mile on the road. Don
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| carcrazy | -- 10-11-2025 @ 1:33 PM |
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It is good to have a backup electric fuel pump in the fuel line located close to the fuel tank. When the engine mounted mechanical pump fails or you encounter trouble starting the car, you can simply turn on the electric pump to get you going.
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| TomO | -- 10-12-2025 @ 2:57 PM |
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If Charley cant help you, try Terril Machine in Texas (254) 893-2610. They can rebuild your pump and may have a good core of a 1941-1946 style pump as they are more common. The valves are pressed in and then staked. You may not need to replace them. To check the input valve, assemble the pump and hold your thumb over the input port then operate the pump a couple of times. Your thumb should feel the vacuum for about 20 seconds after you stop pumping. If you have a vacuum gauge, you can hook it up to the input and operate the pump, you should be able to generate 10 inches of mercury and it should hold vacuum for about 20 seconds. The out put port should develop 3 lbs pressure and no vacuum. Be aware that the top gasket can affect these readings. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 10-12-25 @ 3:21 PM
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